Santiago is a small, cheerful city full of thankful pilgrims, odd churches, and massive monasteries. It's a bit out of the way but a brilliant tourist destination whatever your religion. Santiago De Compostelais Galicia's most important city but also one of Spain's cultural jewels and a place of international religious significance. Santiago is a World Heritage site with around fourteen ancient churches crammed into the fairly small and pedestrianized old town (there is a considerably larger new town), along with at least six vast monasteries/ nunneries. And it all began with St James.
The road, a mostly free-of-charge Autopista, was the best highway I've ever been on, so new, smooth, and uncrowded that it was cruise-control all the way, with bonus mountains (Picos de Europa) on one side for much of the time.
Driving time from Santander is about 5 hours. We stopped at incredible - and appropriate - Cathedral Beach on the north coast of Galicia on the way, after a pleasant 2.5-hour drive, had a long sandy walk and lunch, and then took another 2.5 hours to get to Santiago de Compostela.
Underground parking nearby costs 10.50 euros for 24 hours. There are places to park for free (avoid any spaces with blue or yellow lines) downhill south of Obradoiro, but they're not easy to find at peak times.
Accommodation: prices in Santiago are not ridiculous. We rented a very modern, sophisticated apartment on Rua San Francisco, just 50m from the Cathedral/Obradoiro Square, for 80 euros a night in peak season.
However, if you cannot stay at the Reyes Catolicos but would like to check the place out, dress up a bit and walk in as if you are staying there, or maybe ask for the café. Then wander around the salons and four grand courtyards. The chapel is a fine sight too but it was locked when we strolled by.
A center view of a majestic hotel in Spain This hotel is certainly the place to stay if you have a bottomless budget as it looks fantastic and is in a brilliant location.
Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos courtyard, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
Hostal de los Reyes (Reis) Católicos on the third side of Praza do Obradoiro is a stunning 15thC pilgrim hospital that is now an equally superb hotel.
Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
La Tuna College musicians wear badges indicating locations - national and international - where they have played. They specialise not only in a variety of stringed instruments but more importantly in close harmonies of traditional Spanish folk songs. They are fundamentally buskers and pass the hat around in a quite determined way.
A group of male traditional Spanish musicians La Tuna, traditional Spanish musicians playing in the Town Hall, Pazo de Raxoi, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
On the west side of Praza do Obradoiro opposite the cathedral is the Town Hall, 18thC Pazo de Raxoi (Rajoy), where La Tuna musicians often play in the evenings.
Praza do Obradoiro opposite the cathedral, pilgrims, and the Town Hall, Pazo de Raxoi, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
Santiago has a breezy, wet climate with neither too much heat (rarely over 30C/86F) in the summer nor too much cold in the winter; generally, lows are about 4C/40F. November to January months are very wet, probably windy, and best avoided.
The best time to visit Santiago de Compostela is the three driest, sunniest months of June, July, and August, when a little rain can still be expected (the least rainfall is statistically in July), and high temperatures will range between 22C/72F - 24C/75F with lows around 12C/54F.
And just around the backside of the Colegio de San Xerome is this lovely, free-to-wander courtyard with some outstanding reliefs.
The lovely courtyard of Colexio de San Xerome, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
Campus Stellae means 'Field of Stars' in Latin, which is a rather more romantic name for a nice town than 'Burial Ground'!
Santiago de Compostela probably means 'The burial place of Sant Iago' (Composita Tella means 'Burial Ground' in Latin while Iago is a Galician version of James) though the legend suggests that the hermit who found St. James' original burial place was led there by strange noises and lights/stars - maybe dinner that night was a handful of Psilocybin mushrooms?!
On the east side of Praza do Obradoiro is Colexio de San Xerome, aka Colegio de San Jerónimo, where priests learned different languages to hear international confessions, now embellished with a couple of bizarre statues.
Strange sculpture on Colexio de San Xerome balcony, Praza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
On the elaborate cathedral header locals are seen welcoming arriving pilgrims (in fact the topmost figure is St James the Elder) as the figures are carrying walking sticks (albeit ancient crooks, unlike today's high-tech aluminum jobbies) and wearing traditional hats with scallop shells on the brim.
The cathedral's two towers on either side of this centerpiece were undergoing renovation when we were there in 2014; work is scheduled to finish in summer 2015. It was unfortunate and disappointing but didn't matter in the long run as there are so many spectacular sights in Santiago, not least the incredible decor inside the cathedral and around the other two magnificent entrances, east and west.
A man standing in front of the Santiago Cathedral's central header There are also plenty of arrivals on bicycles these days, though they can hardly be called pilgrims and presumably don't earn an indulgence from the church, i.e. time off from Hell.
Praza do Obradoiro, bordered by the town hall, the College of San Xerome, and the magnificent Parador Hostal dos Reis Catolicas as well as the cathedral, is the ultimate destination for pilgrims, where they collapse, cry, laugh, hug, celebrate wildly or praise the Lord quietly (or any combination thereof), and this being the decade of the selfie the younger pilgrims love to be photographed on the unlovely metal cube in front of the elegant, engraved scallop shell in the center of the square.
Homebase for pilgrims is the city's main square, Praza do Obradoiro in front of Santiago Cathedral. Pilgrims taking selfie photos in Praza do Obradoiro in front of Santiago Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
There used to be a tradition that pilgrims would burn their stinking clothes on arrival and would be given a new set of clothing by the church.
Pilgrims also traditionally carried a walking stick and a gourd flask containing water or wine.
In addition, broad lines converge at a single point on a scallop shell, exactly what happens (albeit on a different scale) when various Camino de Santiago trails converge on Obradoiro Square in front of Santiago Cathedral.
Others claim that the scallop represented a successful arrival in Santiago - not the journey - and pilgrims would eat a scallop on entering the city, then fix the shell to their hats in celebration. Santiago is just 30 km from the Galician coast where scallops are commonplace - or were commonplace before the market for them exploded!
Some say that the scallop shell was a useful, simple tool when pilgrims traveled very lightly as it could be used for drinking from a fountain or pool of water and could also function as a dish for accepting gifts of food from strangers.
There seem to be differing opinions of the origin of this mark.
The scallop is both the pilgrim's traditional symbol as well as being a Camino de Santiago route mark and can be seen on walls, signposts and inset into streets all over north Spain, as well as all over souvenirs in local shops.
Visitors to Santiago de Compostela will soon notice the ubiquitous scallop shell, always pointing towards Praza do Obradoiro, the end of the line, or more precisely the end of many lines.
Pilgrims and a scallop shell set into the road surface, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
However, even if the second theory is true, that the Church misrepresented the site (for the best of reasons), millions of pilgrims have been inspired by Santiago de Compostela and arrived there with love, determination, and devotion which can still be felt in this wonderful, joyous, peaceful city. And we don't say that about many cities!
- Santiago de Compostela became the most popular Catholic pilgrimage destination in Western Europe during the Middle Ages (Rome was the biggest loser).
- St James the Moor Slayer, aka Santiago Matamoros, led Christians against the Moors in 844 and won a great battle. You can see Santiago Matomoro on his white charger at the top of the dazzling ornamentation above the altar in Santiago Cathedral.
All of the above was concocted by Catholic church authorities to raise funds and emotions to fight against the Arabic Moors who were spreading north through Hispania and doing very well for themselves. Just look at Seville, Granada, and Cordoba, grand cities still dominated by Moorish architecture.
One more thing... a 1950s excavation under the cathedral revealed the tomb of Bishop Theodomir, who had asked to be buried near St James. The engraved date on the tomb was 847.
The local Bishop, Theodomir, set off with a few sturdy assistants and searching the vicinity, found a small, old building with three bodies in it. He concluded that the more prominent bodily remains were of St James while the two lesser skeletons belonged to the two acolytes who had brought his body from Palestine. Theodomir informed King Alfonso II who promptly commanded a Catholic basilica to be built on the site. And that was the genesis of Santiago de Compostela.
Times were turbulent in Spain for hundreds of years after this and St James entered folklore until in 813 AD a hermit/shepherd told the local bishop that he had seen strange lights/stars and heard unusual noises in a certain area where legend had it that St James was buried.
St. James (the Elder) was one of Jesus' disciples and after the crucifixion traveled to Spain (known as Hispania then) to spread the Christian word. After some years James returned to Palestine where he was executed by the Romans (under the orders of Herod Agrippa) for his faith in 44 AD. His followers brought his decapitated body back to the Spanish port of Padron in Galicia, and from there took him by horse-cart to an unknown location where they buried him.
Santiago de Compostela is renowned for being the final destination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Its historic and religious significance draws pilgrims and tourists alike, making it one of the most visited cities in Spain.
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is a must-see, featuring the tomb of St. James. Other notable sights include the Praza do Obradoiro, Hostal dos Reis Católicos, and the Monastery of San Martiño Pinario. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is also worth exploring.
The best time to visit is during the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) when the weather is pleasant and the city is less crowded. The Feast of St. James on July 25th is a significant event, attracting many visitors.
Santiago de Compostela is accessible by air through Santiago-Rosalía de Castro Airport. It is also well-connected by train and bus services from major Spanish cities. Many visitors arrive on foot via the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes.
The Camino de Santiago is a network of pilgrimage routes leading to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The most popular route is the Camino Francés, starting in St. Jean Pied de Port, France. Pilgrims walk for spiritual reasons, adventure, or personal challenge.
Beyond its historical sites, Santiago offers a vibrant cultural scene with museums, art galleries, and theaters. The city is also known for its culinary delights, including fresh seafood and traditional Galician dishes. Walking through the picturesque parks and gardens, like Alameda Park, is another relaxing activity.
Yes, Santiago de Compostela is generally safe for tourists. As with any traveldestination, it is advisable to stay aware of your surroundings and take usual precautions against petty theft. Santiago de Compostela, a jewel of Galicia in Northwest Spain, offers a rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and spiritual experiences. Renowned as the endpoint of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, the city is home to must-see sights like the majestic Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the historic Old Town. Visitors can enjoy a vibrant cultural scene, delectable Galician cuisine, and the warm hospitality of the locals.
Whether exploring ancient monasteries, strolling through picturesque parks, or embarking on a guided tour, Santiago de Compostela promises a memorable journey. With its safe and welcoming atmosphere, it's an ideal destination for travelers seeking both adventure and tranquility. For those looking to extend their adventure, the nearby coastal towns and scenic wine regions offer perfect day trips. In summary, Santiago de Compostela is a destination that captivates the heart and soul, inviting visitors to explore its many treasures.