The Moorish Fountain, Rome. Photo by Livioandronico2013
Castel Sant’Angelo. Photo by Thomas Wolf.
Built as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family in 139 AD, Castel Sant’Angelo is near the Vatican and became useful to various the popes as a fortress in times of trouble, with a secret tunnel connecting the fort and the Vatican.
It also saw service as a prison (one prisoner was the famous artisan/warrior/assassin Benevenuto Cellini) but is now a museum displaying medieval art, statues and itself. Castel Sant’Angelo makes an appearance in the opera Tosca as the heroine jumps to her death from the castle’s walls.
Rome (Roma in Italian) is a very romantic, walkable experience and bikeable too, or you could do the Dolce Vita thing and rent a scooter.
Apart from the vast numbers of lovely piazzas (as in square, not thin crust), Roman relics and gorgeous Rome churches you will want to see at least the mega-rich, independent state of the Vatican and its museums (see Top Three Museums below).
Also the vast Basilica of St. Peters (not as interesting or spectacular internally as many other Roman churches, but big).
Then there are the classic attractions:
ThePantheon (built by angels according to Michelangelo, more impressive outside than inside).
Piazza Navona with its fountains, artists and cafés.
Campo dei Fiori open air market.
The busy narrow streets of Trastevere for a real Roman night dining experience.
Column of Marcus Aurelius. Photo Jebulon
Public Transport: Run by the municipal transport agency ATAC, Rome’s bus network is extensive and quite efficient – which is more than can be said for its metro system, currently consisting of just two lines, A and B, which intersect at Termini Station.
A is useful if you are going to the Vatican (direction Battistini, get off at Ottaviano), while B will take you to the Colosseum (direction Laurentina, get off at Colosseo).
Single tickets, which can be bought at metro stations, in most tabacchi (cigarette shops; look for the blue T sign), or at newspaper stands and are valid for 100 minutes on any combination of buses, plus one metro ride.
There are also whole-day, three-day and weekly passes. All tickets and passes need to be stamped on the first bus or at metro turnstiles. Children under the age of 11 travel free.
Cars: Car parks and directional signs are more or less non-existant and outside the centre streets are stuffed with cars parked higgledy-piggledy so don’t bring a car here unless you have GPS, nerves of steel and a hotel in Rome with parking!
A Smart car would be an excellent choice of vehicle, or – four wheels bad, two wheels good – get around by scooter, though beware cobblestones in the rain.
Taxis: Roman taxis aren’t cheap: though the official minimum fare is a few euros most journeys have a strange way of coming out at considerably more and a long crawl in heavy traffic can set you back a lot. There is a night surcharge between 10pm and 7am.
Walking: Pedestrian crossings are common but walkers need to develop a system to use them effectively because vehicles will not stop at crossings unless compelled to do so. e. g. by your lurching body.
This is the way it works: stand at the beginning of the crossing and look at driver’s eyes. If they don’t stop (most unlikely), start to cross confidently when there is a reasonable gap in the traffic, but maintain eye contact with drivers to check they are actually slowing down.
By law they should stop, though Italians have a well-known disregard for the law – but at the same time they really don’t want to maim or kill you.
Teatro Olimpico has the best reputation for dance.
The Filarmonica is for ethnic and contemporary.
The Opera season runs from Nov-Mar at Teatro dell’ Opera; in summer it moves outdoors (eg. Stadio Olimpico, Baths of Caracalla) and the prices come down.
Theatre: Teatro Agora holds a short season of international theatre in other languages, while the Colosseo Ridotto presents English language shows every week.
Live Music: The city’s more in favour of jazz than rock with plenty of venues
Check ‘Time Out’ for event info/listings. Ticket Office ‘Orbis’ is at Piazza Esquilino.
Rome has plenty of little trattorias that serve excellent meals at the right price, but don’t expect much other than classic, low-end Italian cuisine. . . pastas, pizzas, salads and excellent ice-cream (gelato). International cuisine or even wildly different Italian is hard to come by on a budget.
Snack culture has been spurred on by the recession, and there are now places where you can grab a decent stand-up or carry-out meal for €10.
Fast foods and sandwiches (tramezzini) are common.
Some establishments don’t have English menus so if you are a gourmet or even just like to know what you’re eating then study up on the Italian language of food.
BTW, one guide book of much repute had several pages of food names in Italian but overlooked the most important: the translation of ‘the bill please’! (il conto per favore).
The Trastevere area on the left bank of the river is a bit of a hike to reach (no metro stop) but interesting, evocative, very local (as opposed to touristic) and bursting with tiny eateries, while streets around Piazza Navona offer nice little places with reasonable prices, though prices often get silly at restaurants on actual piazza’s.
The oldest pizzeria is said be Da Ricci in Via Genova, the best is Dar Poeta in Trastevere.
For vegetarians try Margutta Vegetariano in via Margutta.
Note that Romans rarely dine before 8pm.
Day trips out
Why bother when there’s a lifetime of sights in the city? Well, if you must escape for a few hours. . .
Try Ostia Antica for ancient Roman ruins (n. b. not tacky Ostia seaside town).
To get a real sense of the life and layout of an ancient Roman town, head for Rome’s former port, which has been excavated, complete with theatre, apartment blocks, baths and communal loo. It’s just as atmospheric as Pompeii but far less touristy.
Head for Piramide (south of the Colosseum) and take the Roma-Lido train line (20 minutes) to Ostia Antica; from here the entrance is a 10-minute walk.
Via dei Romangnoli 717, Ostia.
Open Tues-Sun, 8. 30am-6pm.
Also Tivoli for Hadrian’s spectacular Villa Adriana, fountains and landscaped gardens (40kms out of Rome); medieval Viterbo with its great town wall and nearby Bomarzo’s tranquil, wacky scuplture garden Parco dei Mostri (a favourite of Mr S. Dali); Terracina for big, calm, uncrowded white sand beaches with minimum life support or Sperlonga for the full monte Italian beach resort experience.
Note that if you’re driving signposting is dreadful and views are generally not much better.
Italy is still the European country with the highest average room rates, though a dip in tourist numbers over the past couple of years means that reductions and special offers are frequent so look for internet reductions and don’t be afraid to haggle.
Longish-stay visitors or those on a tight budget who like to cater for themselves may like to rent an apartment, though they are often a bit of a walk from the core attractions, so check for good value, well-organised Rome self catering apartments especially in centrally located places near popular sights. Try to book ahead or go out of season.
The subway system is neither very convenient nor safe during busy times from tourist hot-spots when pickpockets roam with apparent impunity but if you’re going in/out from a suburb there should be few problems.
If it’s possible, stay in a Rome hotel near the centre, this is a wonderful walking city but you’ll need to recharge your batteries (literally and metaphorically) frequently!
Rome offers some stunning high quality goods in original and imaginative designs and fantastic varieties of colours. Shoes, gloves and other leatherwear, cotton clothing, kitchenware, all stylish but reasonably priced.
When entering or leaving shops, bars it’s traditional etiquette to say ‘buon giorno’ in the morning or ‘buona sera’ in the afternoon or evening ( it covers both hello and goodbye). ‘Ciao’ is informal, for use with friends, young people or kids, or among work colleagues.
If somebody thanks you by saying ‘grazie’ it’s polite to say ‘prego’ (you’re welcome) in return.
For good value try the market in Piazza Testaccio which offers a mass of stalls selling good-quality shoes and bags at knock-down prices.
You will need to sift carefully to find quality at the Porta Portese flea market, which unfolds along Via Portuense. It’s entertaining and atmospheric but watch out for pickpockets.