Map of Côte d’Azur vs French Riviera, France

Map of Cote d’Azur contrasted with French Riviera

The Côte d’Azur seen from Antibes with towns marked, France

This photo of one key part of the Côte d’Azur was taken from Antibes, across the Baie des Anges, with towns marked.

What is the Côte d’Azur?

There are many ideas on the Côte d’Azur’s territorial limits. Some think it goes as far as Marseille or as short a distance as St Tropez, while there are French locals who equate the province of Alpes-Maritimes with the Côte d’Azur, but the most commonly accepted span is from the Italian border (near Menton) to Hyeres, as we have pictured above.

The depth of the ‘Côte’ (coast) into the French hinterland is another question. Holiday villas in Grasse are classified in the Côte d’Azur but the sea is 18 kms (11 miles) away at that point. Logic dictates that the inland border extends to no more than the Southern Alps mountain range.

Where to go on the French Riviera/Côte d’Azur

Eze village panorama, Côte d’Azur, France

Eze village and the railway running alongside the coast towards Monaco and Menton.

We’re actually focusing on the French Riviera though many visitors (most? ) think that this stretch of sunny Mediterranean coastline is called the Côte d’Azur. Well it is, and it isn’t.

Officially the Côte d’Azur (Blue Coast) is the Mediterranean coast in the south of France that stretches from Hyeres to the Italian Border.

The French Riviera is the popular beach resort section that occupies the eastern part of the Côte d’Azur from Cannes through Juans les Pins, Antibes, Villeneuve-Loubet Plage, Cagnes-sur-Mer and Nice, past the Monaco principality and on to the last French Town before Italy, Menton.

Beauty or Blight?

Whatever it’s called, this section of coastline has its critics.

Anthony Peregrine of the Sunday Times calls Cannes a ‘tawdry patch of urban blight messing up a nice coast’.

But that’s a little exaggerated as the three main Riviera towns – Cannes, Antibes and Nice – all have magnificent sea fronts, warm summer water, some lovely old buildings, lively agreeable locals (except perhaps les riches of Cannes who strut around with an excessive air of self importance). They also do excellent fresh food (from restaurants or supermarkets), stunning weather most of the year, good museums and some terrific beaches (tho’ mostly stony).

There is a fair amount of corrupt-developer blight too, of course, but what popular urban area worldwide doesn’t suffer from a degree of that these days?

The Riviera or whatever you choose to call it – is in our humble opinion – less snooty than you might think and still terrific for walking, eating, swimming, renting fun apartments or luxury French villas and looking at people and places.

Some fine museums, too, but the killer app is the weather, which – with the occasional hiccup – is staggeringly pleasant, mild with blue skies for most of the year. Queen Victoria’s court knew how to pick a holiday spot and Nice was their choice!

When to visit the Côte d’Azur?


• Summer – May, June, September (October is the wettest month supposedly) when the heat is off and the crowds are at work. Just after summer is better for swimmers as the sea will still be warm then with less tourists, cheaper accommodation, restaurant availability and so on.
In the last couple of years July has been excessively hot (up to 38C/100F for 2/3 weeks in 2015 although statistically the maximum should be 28C/82F) but cooling off in August.

Winter – November, December, January, February – is generally fine, with blue skies and light-jacket cold (average lows of about 6C/43F and highs about 14C/57F), though it does rain from time to time so it’s a bit of a gamble.
Statistically the wettest months are October-November, but that’s only 1/4 chance at the worst. British and North Europeans who are desperate for some UV to counteract SAD would do well to visit in winter. Italians love Nice in winter, in spite of the fact that they do not lack UV!

Nice in Winter Pictures

Main Attractions Inland

The view from Eze's 'Exotic Garden', Côte d’Azur, France

The view from Eze’s ‘Exotic Garden’ which does have an entry fee but is worth it for the views.

***Eze, a superb location, panoramic views and delightful little streets, Eze is a must-see, but crowd avoidance is essential as it’s tiny and parking limited. One problem is that the obvious transport solution, the train, stops well below the village at Eze-sur-Mer and the walk up on the Nietzsche trail is horrific. It’s bad enough going down! Maybe take a taxi from the station?
An hour will do an Eze visit at a push or stay for lunch in one of the exquisite but pricey restaurants such as the Chevre d’Or.

Eze is tiny and beautiful but so overwhelmed by tourists that it doesn’t really function as a true residential space, more as a ‘museum village’. Nevertheless it’s a gorgeous place and makes an excellent day trip from Nice, along with Monaco and/or Menton.
In season go early or late to avoid the packaged hordes, there’s no entry gate or fee apart from access to the exotic garden.

St Paul de Vence entry, cote d'azur, france

St Paul de Vence’s main street. Photo by Jean-Charles Guillo.

**St Paul de Vence, another fortified village similar to Eze with magnificent walls and lots of very expensive art for sale.

Plaza Lamy, the start of Mougins village, cote d'azur, france

Plaza Lamy, the start of Mougins village.

**Mougins, a hilltop village with grand views, a fine new museum, lots of very expensive art for sale and good restaurants at substantial price.

Grasse Cathedral, Cote d'Azur, france

Grasse Cathedral, inland but still the Côte d’Azur!

**Grasse, a sizeable hillside town with a complex layout, fine cathedral and old town and their raison d’etre, perfumeries. Perhaps our least favourite Riviera city – too much traffic, too little parking, too little to do.

Valbonne restaurant, Côte d’Azur, France

An interesting-looking Valbonne restaurant. I wonder if the neighbours enjoy the night air?

Valbonne. Popular with English/North European residents for residence or holiday lets, it’s calm and convenient but very limited in scope and, IMHO, not worth a special trip.

Gourdon, a distant, small perched village with panoramic views over to Cannes

**Gourdon is a distant, small perched village with panoramic views over to Cannes and some grand walks nearby.

Best Côte d’Azur City Beaches

Nice pay and free beaches on the Baie des Anges in mid-summer, cote d'Azur, france

Nice pay and free beaches on the Baie des Anges in mid-summer. Downside: pebbles and slightly steep entry/exit from water to beach. Beach shoes recommended and folk with wobbly ankles should avoid.

Nice offers the classic Cote d’Azur beach environment with brilliant skies, warm azure waters and a long, curving pebble beach scattered with restaurants and pay-loungers but also hosting plenty of free public space, with showers and toilets.

This 6km (3. 75 miles) stretch on the Baie des Anges – virtually identical along its length but labelled as over 20 different beaches – is bordered by the lovely, wide Promenade des Anglais (the photo was taken from the promenade) with separate cycle/skate track. Beyond that is a 6/4 lane road and limited parking, though there are some large underground and overground car parks on the other side of the road where Nice city starts but these will be very/completely full in the summer months so it’s best to travel to Nice by plane or train. More

Nice's best city overlook from the hill at one end, Castle Hill, Colline du Château, cote d'azur, france

Nice’s best overlook from the hill at one end, Castle Hill, Colline du Château.

Nice apartment ad, France
Zamenhoff beach, off Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes, Côte d'Azur, France

Zamenhoff beach, off Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes, looking towards the centre of the city – Festival Hall, the main marina, Le Suquet Hill etc. Downside: limited sand space though there are several smaller beaches on either side, pricey facilities.

Plage de la Gravette, Antibes, cote d'azur, france

Plage de la Gravette, Antibes. One of several excellent, calm, sandy beaches within easy walk of Antibes Old Town. Antibes is a winner, one of our 3 top beach hits along with Nice and Cannes. Downside: Parking! But there is a convenient train station just 8 minutes walk away from this beach.

Juans-les-Pins beach, cote d'Azur, france

A typically narrow and lounger-dominated Juans-les-Pins beach with hideous backside. Why bother? The whole district is cramped, overbuilt and offers no tourist interest apart from walking around the Cap d’Antibes and getting drunk in a shouty bar.

Villeneuve-Loubet Plage beach, Côte d'Azur, France

No reason to visit Villeneuve-Loubet Plage either, unless you’re a yachtie or staying nearby, in which case it’s OK, tho’ pebbly.

Cagnes-sur-Mer pay beach, Cote d

Cagnes-sur-Mer shore has been developed with some sensitivity; free beaches and pay beaches; stylish café/restaurants; good watersports facilities; nice little promenade with cycle track and palms; great music and fireworks in summertime. Downside: aside from the shore the town is pretty much of zero interest.

Monaco's beach, Larvotto, Côte d'Azur, France

You might imagine Monaco’s beach, Larvotto, to be crammed with pay loungers, but only half of it is, and all of it is coated with some kind of synthetic gravel that is pretty easy on the feet tho’ you’d have difficulty getting a parasol to stand up in it. They have some kind of netting string across too, probably against jellies as sharks are obviously not a problem, apart from financial sharks of course. Downside: parking. Costs are not too outrageous unless you want to stay there overnight.

Menton's Les Sablettes beach, Côte d'Azur, France

Menton’s Les Sablettes beach on the Italian side of the town, a calm and comfortable patch. Downside: small, but maybe that’s a good thing. A day trip should just about do it.

Good but lesser-known French Riviera beaches

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, Plage de la Buse, a couple of kilometres east of Monaco and connected by a pleasant, coastal hiking trail, the Sentier des Douaniers.

This fine, though partly pebbly public beach offers a wide sweep of shallow water, an excellent beach café that also rents kayaks and is just 100m from the car park at Roquebrune train station.

Cap d’Ail, Mala Plage, a few minutes west of Monaco is a good size and has a rarely crowded public beach zone perfectly embraced by cliffs, with marine activities rentals and a fine restaurant.

Access is via a steep – though agreeable – 10 minute hike down from Avenue Princesse Grace. Take either a bus to the Beaverbrook stop or drive and park in the Cap d’Ail car park, walking down Ave. Francois de May until you see brown signs indicating the way to the beach.

Cap Ferrat, Paloma Plage. A few minutes walk from Saint-Jean village, Paloma sits on a calm, sandy bay lapped by clear waters. There is a private beach club area and a pricey café/restaurant as well as the public beach. When swimming becomes a bore take a hike along the delightful little trail Sentier Edmund Davies around the Paloma Point headland.

Villefranche, Plage de Passable, a sheltered stretch of pebbly bay popular with local families in-the-know, Passable has a good restaurant and is the starting point for a terrific 4km Cap Ferrat walking trail around the Ferrat peninsula.

Plage de la Garoupe, Antibes, Côte d'Azur, France

Plage de la Garoupe, a delightful little stretch with excellent café (that you would need to book in advance at busy times) and a couple of restaurants. This beach marks the start/finish of the lovely hour or two Cap d’Antibes walking trail.

Cap d’Antibes (Antibes‘ very exclusive peninsula), Plage de la Garoupe is the place for wealth-spotting, just a Bentley waft from possibly the Riviera’s best hotel, the Eden Roc; La Garoupe’s public area is limited by a pricey beach club but the sand is soft, the rocks interesting if there are no jellies at home, the views of Antibes coast spectacular and the snorkelling pretty good. Furthermore, there’s a really fine little walk around the shore of the Cap, taking between one and two hours.

st tropez, Plage de la Fontenette, cote d'azure, france

St Tropez, Plage de la Fontenette. The larger beaches are a good solid walk away, or a drive.

St Tropezis the snobbiest part of the Côte d’Azur (more so even than Monaco! ), with big money, big crowds and big traffic jams, yet still glamorous. The in-vogue beach is Nikki, where you have to pay – or even book in advance, but there are plenty of superb cafés and restaurants as well as the outstanding Musée de l’Annonciade (20th century masters such as Rouault and Matisse).

A useful train route runs along the Côte d’Azur from Marseilles to Ventimille (Ventemiglia) and though it’s comfortable it’s not exactly reliable. In addition it sometimes stops very near the sea, such as at Villeneuve-Loubet Plage or Villefranche but sometimes it’s quite a distance away like in Nice where it’ll take a good 20 minutes walk to reach the shore, though the newish tram system is cheap, efficient and a big help to getting around.

Sad to say but we tend to drive along the coast on the excellent A8 autoroute which is generally easy to access (a notable exception is Cannes) or nip onto the spectacular or interesting during the off season. From Antibes to Menton on the A8 takes about 45 minutes.


The normal Mediterranean stinger is the Pelagia Noctiluca, with substantial stinging tentacles. It’s a mid-sea drifter which approaches the coast in autumn and springtime but is rarely troublesome.
If stung and no official salve is available from a First Aid post, try one of two treatments, and urine is not one of them! Rubbing the stings with sea water (not fresh water) and gravelly sand (some people suggest credit cards) to remove the stings. If hot water is available pour it, as hot as bearable, onto the stings and it should deactivate them.

To escape from the busy coastal Riviera, try the views and activities of the magnificent ‘Grand Canyon’ of Verdon Gorge a couple of hours away inland, the îles d’Hyères (resort islands with more wildness and less motors), the superb Provencal towns of Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Arles, or even a bit further away off the French mainland, head for the great landscapes, walks and beaches of Corsica (car ferries from Nice or Marseilles).