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Bonifacio
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Bonifacio
haute ville, in other words high town but meaning the
walls and the buildings inside them; originally the town had
just one entrance [top right].
Bonifacio
hangs onto the southwest tip of Corsica, an isolated and captivating
port that beats every other Corsican town into a dull pulp.
Split into two parts, the haute ville is a short though steep
walk up from the ville basse, but worth it as inside the walls
is the place to eat, drink and be merry. Ville basse restaurants
take advantage of visitor sloth to over-price and under-provide
but a five minute hike elevates you to a different world. It's
a pity you can't stay there.

Bonifacio's
port is as protected from the climatic elements
as it was from maritime invaders; it's now a modern yachty magnet,
but short of space.
Bonifacio's
hotels cannot penetrate the haute ville so they cluster mostly
along the narrow ville basse [on the right in the picture].
Town planners have devised a cunning plan to f*** with wheeled
tourists whereby - without the slightest attempt at signposting
- traffic to hotels has to drive up and past the haute ville,
down to the port, U-turn along a quay and squeeze into a tight
one-way street that runs through the ville basse and past the
hotels.
Cars then stop to unload baggage, blocking others from
travelling along the road, then drive off to the large public
park at the end of town. It's not much of a walk to get there
and is a reasonably sensible system but it would be nice if
someone was to explain the system to tired and bemused new arrivals.
If you visit Bonifacio on a day trip, park in the first car
park on the left, but you have to circle around it anticlockwise
to get to the entrance.
And if you wish to stay in the town in high season book ahead.
Well ahead! And be prepared to pay for the pleasure!

The view along the chalk cliff coast from the haute ville, including
Grain de Sable island.
One
of Bonifacio's most popular tourist offerings is boat excursions
lasting an hour or two to see the old town teetering on the
edge of the high cliffs and visit a few islets in the area.

Bonifacio's
old town is labyrinth of ancient and dilapidated Genoese-style
apartment blocks.
Other
activities available during the summer season [at least
July to the end of October] in Bonifacio include: sailing, windsurfing,
kite surfing, sea kayaking, canoeing, power boating and all
sorts of boat excursions.

Friendly,
lively, unpretentious and tasty, Stella d'Oro bar/restaurant
in the haute ville. Next, photos of Corsica's east coast to Corte.
Beaches
in the immediate vicinity are distinctly lacking though a half
an hour by car is sufficient to reach luscious Rondinara
beach a few kilometres to the north.
By
the way, Bugbog unavoidably visited Corsica in October/November,
the rainy month, so these photos do the place less than justice,
but we hope you get the picture nevertheless.
E-mail from Mandy:
Then there was a boat trip to the Dragon Grotto in Bonifacio – wildly and spectacularly beautiful and also gut-churningly dodgy as the captain shoe-horned the boat into a cave with a very large swell washing serious waves into the cave behind us. It took all his skill to turn the boat, then he was unable to get us out as the waves surged in through the entrance. After some time, (which allowed me to check and establish that there was absolutely no safety equipment on the boat – not a life jacket or ring in sight), there was a lull in the waves, and he dashed out, thumping the boat hard against the side of the cave. Once out of the cave he did check that the boat wasn’t holed and letting in water and so we continued on our way...
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