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The geysers of El Tatio, just starting to spurt their steamy stuff at 6am.

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The Tatio geysers are, no question, a hassle to get to. You have to be there for 7am [by 8 o'clock it's winding down and by 9 o'clock geyser activity is over for the day] and it's a 100km of tough, winding gravel road that takes about two hours of pitch dark driving. Most tours leave at 4am. Furthermore, on arrival the air temperature is probably going to be below zero, perhaps -5C or even -10C, an unpleasant shock after San Pedro's heat and thick clothing will be required. In addition, the altitude of 4,500m is enough to make most unacclimatised visitors feel most peculiar, if not downright sick.

However, the area is fantastically unique, with gouts of water and clouds of vapour puffing out at 85C from 40 geysers and 70 fumaroles over 3 sq kms, with strange crystalline shapes, bizarre coloured mineral deposits, volcanoes looming over, vicuña lurking about and a thermal pool to bathe in.And no safety regulations...boil yourself alive if you wish.
Furthermore, the drive back to San Pedro - in daylight now - is a barren dreamscape of rocks, volcanoes, lakes and vicuña, morphing into more grassy terrain with guanacos [almost llamas], cacti and the wonderful hot springs of Puritama, then on to the salt fields of Atacama.

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