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Street tango on the pedestrian street outside Galerias Pacifico in central BA. Next, more Buenos Aires.
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Buenos Aires - the third largest city in South America - is not a place for grand sights or world famous buildings, it's more about the little urban experiences such as stumbling across a passionate tango display in the street [watched with as much appreciation, if not more, by locals as tourists], catching the purple jacaranda blooms in November, enjoying the occasional graphics and murals, trying not to notice tongue-entwined lovers on a bench while strolling a landscaped park, shopping for high quality local goods at very low prices, eating out at one of BA's sophisticated restaurants for the price you would pay for breakfast in Paris and starting to party at 3 a.m.
BA's city-centre buildings are a mish-mash of elegant French and Spanish colonial interspersed with hideous concrete extrusions and nuevo dull glass towers, all sadly decaying as bankrupt government and businesses still struggle with the economic devastation caused by the peso crash of the early 90's.
Travellers walking the streets would be well advised to keep their eyes on the pavement [sidewalk] rather than taking pictures to avoid ankle-snapping holes that will be filled mañana, when Argentina's boat finally comes home - steered by an efficient and incorruptible captain who is not yet born.
The city's citizens, with high unemployment, poor social services and 40% living below the poverty line are, by-and-large, sadly disheveled and despondent after their fall from grace - the glory years of wealth, status and style when their economy almost equalled the USA's - but they still manage to enjoy art galleries, theatre, music, regular sporting events, a lively night life and still give odd pesos to street entertainers like the tango twosome above.
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