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Hong Kong Travel Guide

 China Travel Guide

Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong, looking from Kowloon Star Ferry terminal across to Hong Kong Island, China.

Related Guides: China | Beijing | China Map | China Tours

Hong Kong: People packed, scenically dazzling and historically fascinating, this tiny but affluent ex-British colony is a kind of muggy mini-China experience, with skyscrapers, colourful temples, old ladies performing t'ai chi, great food, too many pedestrians chattering incomprehensibly, efficient - notably the MTR [Mass Transit Railway. i.e tube/metro/subway] - and often quaint transport systems, terrific harbour and island views and some fine beaches - especially on the outlying islands. Unfortunately sea water around here is generally very polluted so don't plan on swimming unless you are a tough and fortunate cookie.
Hong Kong can be inexpensive [if you choose with care], safe and offers fantastic short holiday experiences though the heat, humidity, poor air quality and jostling throngs of humanity can get tiresome after not too long.

Hong Kong's main attractions:

See the sensational panorama from Victoria Peak where both day and night time views are magnificently different. Don't consider any other transport than the steep and groaning Peak Tram, built in 1888. The Peak suffers from tourist shop abuse but you can escape that by taking a stroll around the Peak Circle Walk or having dinner in Peak Lookout's garden.

Drink in the Night light show: Hong Kong's static night lights are mesmerising [as pictured above] but at 8pm the island's flashest buildings put on a stunning, co-ordinated light show. Find a glass-wall bar or board a harbour junk cruise for an eye-battering spectacle which is better viewed from the Kowloon [mainland] side.

Take the Star Ferry from Kowloon to the Island or vice-versa. Another traditional cheap and cheerful Hong Kong transport institution the ferry offers terrific fish-eye views of the city and busy harbour action, putting you comfortably shoulder-to-shoulder with the city's denizens for practically nothing.
A night time double-decker tram ride to/from Causeway Bay [the full monty is from North Point to Western] is another virtually free tour enjoyed by all.

Shop in Stanley Market, another long standing HK attraction, prettily located in an affluent part of the Island next to a couple of beaches, the market operates daily but is best at the weekend when the main street is closed.

For real Chinese markets head for Mongkok in Kowloon by MTR [metro] in search of just about everything at a knock-down price except serious food; to the Electric Road food market by tram for kicking and screaming eatables; to Causeway Bay by tram 7-9pm or Temple Street for incredible knock-offs.
Tourists looking for serious antiques can find them in Hollywood Road or Cat Street.

Travel the Islands and beaches: Hong Kong encompasses over 200 islands with at least three that are provided with fast ferry connections, comfortable uncrowded living conditions in tiny tourist hotels alongside fishing villages and sea views, excellent eateries, good walks and soft, user-friendly beaches.
The nearer Outlying Islands take around half an hour by fast ferry or an hour by slow boat.
Cheung Chau is where wind-surfing is only slightly less popular than praying at the ancient Pak Tai Temple,
Lantau offers wild, protected views, a mountain cable car ride, a giant buddha at the Po Lin monastery and the plastic Chinese village of Ngong Ping, while Lamma, the nearest to HK is a pleasant, quiet, car free island of trees, green hills, yellow beaches, good bars and restaurants and a monstrous power station.

Sai Kung is a peninsula about 30 minutes from HK centre by MTR [tube] and mini bus 101. The little town is agreeable and well provisioned while the country park offers superb walks and the beaches are equally terrific. Just don't go in the sea!

Nightlife: Lively, modern and sophisticated, SoHo and Lan Kwai Fong are the two prime destinations for club and music action.

Daytime activities: The MacLehose Trail is renowned for hiking, as are Lantau Island marked paths. As for biking, Hong Kong has good tracks around the harbour and in the New Territories. There's plenty of bike hire available.
Hong Kong also hosts several impressive museums, a couple of colourful temples, tranquil green parks and lively amusement parks.

Festivals: The Chinese New Year Jan/Feb is unbearably crowded but the Dragon Boat Festival in May/June is brilliant; the Lantern Festival Sept/Oct is luminous and the Festival of Asian Arts in Oct/Nov is a big international attraction.

Money: Hong Kong is more sophisticated than mainland China so credit cards can be used freely and ATMs are everywhere. Unfortunately, unlike the rest of China, modest tipping is an institution.

Visas are not required for most western nationals visiting Hong Kong or Macau - although naturally a passport is necessary. Mainland China visas can be acquired in both these places and may be easier to acquire than in visitor's home country consulates.

The climate is more sub-tropical than most of China so the best time to visit differs from the mainland:
Best: October-December
is relatively cool and sunny but beware that temperatures can drop below 10C. Worst: July-August [overpowering humidity].

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Chinese food in Hong Kong; an email from Daniel Nash Segundo:

If you're in Hong Kong and itching for Chinese style seafood in a memorable setting there are four prime locations for seafood dining on the waterfront, it's just a question of getting to them as none are on Hong Kong Island.

The places to go are the islands of Lamma and Cheung Chau, or Lei Yue Men and Sai Kung on the mainland.
Of the latter two, although Lei Yue Men is closer to Hong Kong Island, personally I prefer Sai Kung because it is charming and offers a scenic drive. In Sai Kung town there are a number of good restaurants on a delightful promenade with the possibility of a sampan ride around the harbour, or a post prandial stroll whilst you admire the small boats laden with fresh and dried denizens of the deep.
Chuen Kee is the largest eatery. Facing the water on the left is the older of the two Chuen Kee establishments which has great service but is sadly decorated with large sharks'fins. At peak times you will be given a number and then wait for a free table. Happily, the system is very efficient - even on a busy Saturday lunchtime during Chinese New Year I only waited ten minutes and there was plenty to look at during that time because the front of the restaurant is racked with tank upon tank of live fish and other sea creatures, some of which we had never seen before even though we are avid divers.
Once you've been called, you select what you want to eat from the tanks and are given a round numbered chip to take to your table so that the orders don't get mixed up. Then you have a discussion with the waiter or waitress about how you would like each dish cooked, sometimes being given a clear steer - we were told that the shell fish we had picked would go best with a spicy sauce, for instance.
After that, it's pure enjoyment as the courses are served in a sympathetic order from the most subtle to the most strongly flavoured. Our 'uni' (sea urchin) in sashimi style were on a par with the best from Chile whilst the steamed grouper and choy sum with garlic were historic.
Lei Garden on Hong Kong Island offers excellent Chinese nourishment, though is less focused on seafood. There are two locations - one at the International Finance Centre, which may be a tad more tourist friendly, and the other at Wan Chai (Hennessey Road) - but in both cases a reservation is strongly recommended.

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